Category Archives: Restoration Tips & Tricks

Top-Grain vs. Split-Grain Leather and Leather Furniture Care

AT-4 Leather Chesterfield SetteeIn my recent customer spotlight about interior designer Charity and the new antiqued leather settee she bought from us,  I mentioned that leather sofas, chairs, stools and benches are among our top sellers.

One of the leather furniture makers that we work with is a small family business, and they gave me some great info about the different types of leather and the care of leather.Top Grain cream leather sofa

My first lesson was about the difference between top-grain and split-grain leather. Full-grain leather is the natural whole hide, but that whole hide is usually split into layers for making furniture upholstery. (Think of it like peeling two slices of bread apart!)
Both cuts of leather are true 100% leather and each one is wonderful for different purposes, looks, type of furniture and price points.

Red Leather Cloister counter stoolThe top-grain is the cut from the hair side of the leather. It is the most common type of leather used in high-end leather products as it is smooth and pliable.
The traditional top-grain leather look is shiny and smooth and soft to the touch, with natural color and texture variations.  Many of our sofas and chairs are top-grain leather.

The split-grain is from the flesh side. It is a tougher and thicker cut of leather and it is usually at a slightly lower price point. After the split is made, this layer of leather has a fuzzy suede look on both sides and it is light in color. Then it is finished to give it the look and feel of top-grain leather. Usually this includes applying color and a clear protective top coat.

Leather Furniture Care

Leather is porous and it’s made up of around 12-14% water which keeps it so luxuriously supple. But even though it is such a sturdy and timeless upholstery material, you do need to avoid things that will dry the leather out. For example, it’s best to keep it away from a heater or from direct sun right beneath a window.

Top Grain Leather sofa hand-made in USATo clean leather furniture, only use a water based leather cleaner. Before my leather lesson from the furniture makers, I didn’t know how bad the leather conditioners are that you can buy in supermarkets and chain stores. I never thought about it for leather, but it is just like all of those furniture sprays that are also bad for your furniture and create a waxy build-up.

New Madison Leather Club ChairMy leather expert said never to use regular household products to clean and care for leather. This includes products containing oils, waxes or silicones, as they dry out the leather big time! Most “conditioners” contain waxes or oils while furniture polish contains silicones. These all ruin the leather finish. Car cleaners with oils or waxes can leave residue that acts like a magnet to dirt, creating a build-up and finally cracking of the leather. Chemicals in many leather wipes also destroy the finish and dry out the hide so it peels.

Baby wipes are terrible for leather too as is dishwashing liquid as it has a high salt content and will ruin your finish. What about Saddle Soap? That should be OK, right? Wrong! The finish on beautiful leather furniture is not the same as saddle leather, so keep the saddle soap in the stable!

Top Grain Leather Sofa Antique LookAfter cleaning with a water based leather cleaner and nothing else, treat the leather furniture with a good water based leather protector. This creates a protective barrier, preventing dirt and stains from soaking into the leather.

Regularly wiping the leather with a damp cloth helps to clean dirt and body oils from the furniture in addition to helping rehydrate the leather – it’s nature’s own moisturizer! Take care of your top-grain or split-grain leather furniture and it will be look handsome and feel great for years!

AimeeAvatarAimee owns EuroLuxHome.com with her husband and best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Find us on Facebook or connect with EuroLux on Google+. Or you can sign up here to receive this blog in your inbox.

Classic Painted Floor Designs

A while ago I wrote a post on traditional painted checkerboard floors and how to paint a floor. But the checkerboard design was just the beginning. I’ve also seen some great ideas for other styles of painted floors. Some can be a bit whacky and perhaps too outrageous for most of us. I mean, you look at the floor every day and you need to be happy with your floor treatment for years, so you might get fed up with the “urban graffiti floor” look quite quickly!

But I also found some classic designs that give a beautiful look without swamping a room.

Stripes are very traditional – they are one of the painted floor styles that would have been seen way back when. (Because decorative painted floors are not a new idea in decor… they were a popular feature in American homes as long ago as the late 1700s.) The simple painted floorboards in this coastal cottage style room look clean and fresh.

Here is a similar look on a deck of a different house. It would work well in any porch or sunroom too. The nice part about painting each individual plank is that it’s a much easier job! You don’t have to figure out how to line those stripes up so they aren’t wobbly.

But if you have a hardwood floor like this one and you aren’t painting the individual floorboards as such, then you might have to reach for the painter’s tape. A tutorial on Houzz on how to paint stripes on your floor shows how this enclosed porch in New England got a facelift. There are some great tips in the tutorial and the before photos (utilitarian and uninviting) and the after photos (light and breezy) are worth seeing. (While you are on Houzz, we’d love you to pop over and see our EuroLuxHome Houzz page.)

Or how about this elegant plaid painted floor? This otherwise quite simply constructed dining room is given heaps of charm by the grey plaid design on the floor. Because the floor is painted in similar tones to the walls and other decor, it blends in without looking noisy.
Chandeliers always kick a dining room up a notch too… but I’m biased because I get to see and handle so many gorgeous antique and vintage chandeliers in our gallery each day!

I’m guessing that a lot of people look twice at this bathroom’s painted chevron stripe floor. They probably assume it is a carpet or rug at first glance. The pattern wouldn’t look out of place on a textile, so I think that’s why it works. Also, the chevron is slightly irregular, which tones down the visual punch. If all the zig-zags were the same width, it might look a bit like old-fashioned TV interference! As it is, the painted chevron floor looks light and pretty and a bit playful against the otherwise formal decor with a marble bath and swagged drapes.

If you want take it up another notch – pick a stencil! The large stylized flower pattern stenciled on this vintage kitchen floor covers up damage to the original hardwood flooring. The lovely honey tones of the fir wood floorboards still show through, but the stencils disguise the damaged sections. By the way, the original kitchen had a huge 1950s-style stove, but although the new owners couldn’t keep that, they did keep another memento from the past. The wall art came from old newspapers the owners found in the cabinets – they tore out some pictures to frame. How cool is that?

If you have painted floor designs in your home, we’d love to see the pictures! You can contact us at this blog or just show us your photos on our Facebook page.

AimeeAvatarAimee owns EuroLuxHome.com with her husband and best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Find us on Facebook or connect with Or you can sign up here to receive this blog in your inbox.

Checkerboard Painted Wood Floors for Traditional Style

Painted wood floors add such a lot of character to a home and a traditional checkerboard painted design can be a very effective way to cheer up worn wood floors.

Recently I mentioned that we were invited to join the Houzz marketplace. (We’re at EuroLuxHome on Houzz.) This means I’ve been spending a lot more time on Houzz answering customer questions, so I get to see all  the great home decor photos flying by on the screen!  Some of my recent favorites show how a checkerboard painted design on a wood floor gives a room an instant facelift. Doesn’t this neutral checkerboard design in a traditional bathroom look fresh and elegant?

Although painted wood floors might seem like a modern idea, they are actually a traditional choice. Painted floors featuring decorative patterns were popular in American homes by the late 1700s. Often they replicated tile designs, and the black and white painted checkerboard pattern remains a classic choice for painted wood floors. But you don’t have to stick to black and white and neutrals.

This smart red and green painted checkerboard floor adds a little color to the mix! The floor is in a restored 1850 plantation house in Texas. The bold colors might be slightly strong for a living room, but they are a good choice for a hallway like this as they create a sense of energy and movement as you travel between rooms.

This Charleston, SC, room is gloriously inviting! Notice how the softly distressed blue and honey-colored checkerboard pattern painted on the floor doesn’t go right up to the edges. The plain border around the edge gives the illusion of an area rug. The border also creates a breathing space for the eye – a brief transition before you pass into another room with a different floor design. Also notice the real Palmetto Trees in the bookcases! Crazy, huh?

If you don’t want to paint your floors, try a wood stain instead. This splendid entryway in Philadelphia has a diamond or checkerboard floor pattern, but in more subtle wood tones. The painted checkerboard floor look works for every style of traditional home and for modern homes too. If you want to try it for yourself, this helpful Houzz tutorial on How to Paint Your Hardwood Floors should get you started.

This Old House also has a detailed How to Paint a Floor tutorial with specific instructions for a painted checkerboard floor design.

I’ve got some more ideas to share for painted wood floor designs that are just as beautiful and just as classic as the checkerboard design, but that is for another blog post! If you have a checkerboard painted wood floor, please tell us about or (or even share a photo!)

AimeeAvatarAimee owns EuroLuxHome.com with her husband and best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Find us on Facebook or connect with Or you can sign up here to receive this blog in your inbox.

Ceramic Restoration Tips: How to Fix a Broken Ceramic

Oops… crash! Do you have any broken ceramic items lying around the house waiting to be repaired? We’ve got some tips so you don’t have to put the job off any longer! Greg’s mom Kathy is our Director of Restoration Services and she is a certified expert in fine ceramics restoration. Kathy made this video with tips on how to fix your broken ceramics.

The item Kathy repairs in the video is a broken ceramic figurine, a.k.a. Prudence. The large figurine was shipped from Europe to a friend of ours and it arrived with a broken arm. Our friend asked Kathy to take a look at Prudence and see if she could do a repair on the poor girl’s arm. Of course, if EuroLuxAntiques.com packed and shipped this figurine (or any other antique ceramics in our gallery) it would not arrive broken!

Prepare to Fix your Broken Ceramic

1. Kathy says that before starting with the glue, make sure you have paper towels handy as you will definitely need them.

2. Then she starts by looking at the broken surface to see what kind of glue is needed to repair it. She rubs the broken edge with a toothbrush and sees that some powder comes off it. She also sees a few little air holes. This tells Kathy that it’s a soft paste with a lower firing temperature than some other ceramics.

3. With that information she chooses a white glue. The scientific name is polyvinyl acetate (PVA). Elmer’s white glue is the brand Kathy’s prefers. It goes on white and becomes clear as it dries. Note that white glue is water-soluble. It is unlikely that anyone will ever need to put Prudence in water… she’s already suffered enough! But if you do fix a broken ceramic with white glue, you must remember not to soak it later otherwise it will come apart.

4. If there is already glue on the raw edge from a previous fix, you need to clean that off or the new repair won’t seat perfectly.

5. Kathy uses a cardboard box to put the item in and support it while she works. This trick means that gravity does the work for you. The broken ceramic remains stable as it is lodged against the sides of the box. Prudence is a large figurine so Kathy got a banana box from a grocery store. If you have a smaller item to mend, then you would choose a smaller box.

Now the stage is set… let’s get on with the show!

How to Repair the Broken Ceramic

Kathy places the figurine so it balances and is lodged perfectly in the box. Before placing the arm, she is careful not to scrape the broken edge of the piece around too much. She doesn’t want to loosen particles that will interfere with the seating of the piece.

How to glue broken ceramicNext, Kathy applies glue all around the edge of the piece. Some people say to put the glue on both edges of the break – the broken piece itself and the main body you’re attaching it to. Kathy doesn’t usually do that unless it’s quite a wide break. But she does recommend applying the glue all around the edges of the break and then putting some glue down just inside the rim of the break. Then when she places the arm back on the figurine, the glue will run down on the inside. It covers the break on the inside too and gives a little extra strength to the repair.

Once the arm is seated, Kathy wipes off any excess glue spilling on the outside. Then she presses the broken pieces together as hard as she can for about one minute.

“That helps it to heal,” she says. (You can tell that Kathy was a nurse in the U.S. Navy. She worked in that profession for 35 years!) Because white glue is water-soluble, she can go back later once the glue has dried and easily clean off any other excess glue.

So now you know how to fix your broken ceramic items. Let us know how it goes or ask any other questions in the comment box below. Kathy also gave some great tips on deciding when to leave antiques repairs to a professional and when to tackle it yourself in our blog post: When It Breaks: DIY or Professional Restorer?

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her husband, Greg.  Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way.  She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or you can sign up here to receive this blog in your inbox!

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture: Part 5

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture: Part 5

This is the last episode in our series on how to best clean and wax antique furniture. Greg from EuroLuxAntiques.com shows you how to buff off wax the old-fashioned way, without a brush attachment for your drill. This time Greg is demonstrating his technique on a darker piece of antique furniture.

Clean Antique Furniture, Then Apply Wax

In case you missed Part 1, Greg showed the best way to clean off the built up layers of dust and grime on the surface of antique furniture. In Part 2, he demonstrated how to apply furniture wax to your antique furniture using a brush.

TLC Wax Works Great on Antiques

We prefer TLC paste wax, which is an American-made furniture wax, because it is easier to buff that other products we’ve tried. On darker pieces of antique furniture, we like to use the mahogany variety because it gives a nice warm glow to antiques.

Apply a thin coat of wax until it becomes hazy and then let the wax dry a minimum of 30 minutes, but overnight is better.

The Easy Way to Buff Antique Furniture

In Part 3, Greg shows the best way to buff off paste wax by using a natural fiber brush attachment on your drill. You can buy a brush attachment from a furniture restoration company, such as Van Dyke’s Restorers. However, if you don’t have a brush attachment, or even a drill, Greg will demonstrate what to do next.

Old-Fashioned, Muscle Power Technique

The process of buffing paste wax off antique furniture is similar to the process of sanding during woodworking. Start with a courser material first, and then use a finer material with each consecutive pass.

In this case, Greg starts with a hand towel that has a relatively rough nap to start the buffing process. He uses a circular motion with light, even pressure. You might even hear the voice of Mr. Miyagi from the 1984 movie, The Karate Kid, in your head telling you to “wax on, wax off.”

Use Microfiber Cloths for Final Buff

Next, Greg uses two clean microfiber cloths in his two-handed technique that he perfected while working at a car wash in high school. Use light pressure in a circular motion. When the microfiber cloths “catch” on the surface of the antique sideboard, Greg rubs a little more in that area to gently buff off the wax. When the surface begins to feel like glass under your towels, you’re done.

Wax Antique Furniture Annually

Now your antique furniture should shine and have a nice layer of wax which will serve to protect the finish against dust and sunlight. You should wax your antique furniture once per year in order to keep it looking great!

Please let us know if we can answer any questions for you about how to best care for your antique furniture!

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or sign up to receive this blog in your inbox!

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 4

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 4

In this fourth episode in a series on the best way to clean and wax antique furniture, Greg from EuroLux Antiques shows you how to do a final buff in order to really make your antique furniture look great.

Antique Furniture: Clean & Wax First

In Part 1, Greg showed the best way to clean off the built up layers of dust and grime on the surface of antique furniture. In Part 2, he demonstrated how to apply furniture wax to your antique furniture using a brush.

Wax On, Wax Off

If you watched the movie, Karate Kid from 1984, you’ll remember that Mr. Miyagi used the “wax on, wax off” technique to train Daniel (Ralph Macchio) how to do karate. While building muscles is a good thing to do to get in shape, when it comes to buffing wax off antique furniture, there is a better way. Greg shows the best way to buff off wax by using a brush attachment on a drill in Part 3.

Microfiber Cloths Work Best

You can find microfiber cloths in big packs at any hardware store, auto parts store, or even big box warehouse stores. Be sure to use clean ones for the final buff, which happens after you have already done a first buff. Microfiber cloths are soft and won’t scratch the surface of your antique furniture.

Two-Handed Technique Gets Job Done Fast

Greg prefers to use a two-handed approach that he perfected while working at a car wash in high school. He rubs the microfiber cloths quickly over the surface of the antique furniture, using a circular motion without much pressure. It is similar to buffing a pair of shoes – go lightly and quickly. You should really see your antique furniture start to shine!

In the last episode of this series, Greg will show you how to buff wax off antique furniture the old-fashioned way – without the drill attachment.

Please let us know if we can answer any questions for you about how to best care for your antique furniture!

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or sign up to receive this blog in your inbox!

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 3

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 3

In this third episode in our series about the best way to clean and wax antique furniture, Greg at EuroLux Antiques shows you how to buff off the applied wax using a brush attachment on a drill.

Clean First, Then Apply Wax To Antique Furniture

In case you missed the first two episodes, Part One describes how to best clean antique furniture, while Part Two shows how to apply a thin layer of wax to your antiques.We’ve tried a great number of paste wax products, but we prefer TLC wax because it is easier to buff and gives a nice, warm glow to antique furniture.

Use Paste Wax with Beeswax

Apply a thin layer of wax to your piece of antique furniture with a soft-bristle brush and then let it set for at least a half an hour – the longer, the better. Even overnight would be fine. Just make sure to use paste wax that has beeswax in it.

Buff with a Natural Fiber Brush Attachment on a Drill

We clean and wax a great amount of antique furniture, so we’ve learned how to do it quickly and with the least amount of effort. We highly recommend using a corded drill with a soft, natural fiber brush attachment. You can also get a paint brush from a hardware store with a narrow handle and cut it down to fit in your drill.

Use Light Pressure in a Circular Motion

Now use very light pressure and move the brush attachment in a circular motion back and forth across the piece of antique furniture, doing small sections at a time. The wax will begin to heat up and then will begin to shine.

Use a Micro-Fiber Cloth for Final Polish

We recommend using a micro-fiber towel to give a final polish to your piece of antique furniture. You can find big packs of micro-fiber towels at warehouse stores or hardware stores. Greg like to ball up a micro-fiber towel in his hand and then very lightly rub it quickly back and forth across the area where he has buffed with the drill attachment. When it feels smooth like glass under your towel, you’ll know that you are done.

Stay tuned for the next blog post for more tips on how to best clean and wax your antique furniture. Let us know if you have any questions!

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or sign up to receive this blog in your inbox!

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 2

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 2

In this episode, Greg at EuroLuxAntiques continues to teach you the best way to clean and wax a piece of antique furniture.

Clean Antique Furniture with Howard Restor-A-Finish

Just to bring you up to date, in the first video of this series, Greg showed you how to use Howard Restor-A-Finish to remove the built-up layers of old wax, dirt, and grime on the surface of the piece. It is best to use a natural fiber brush attachment with a drill, but you can also use fine grade (0000 4x) steel wool.

Use Paste Wax to Protect Antique Furniture

Once you have cleaned your antique furniture, you should use a good quality paste wax in order to protect and enhance your antique furniture. A nice layer of wax protects the original finish against dust and sunlight, and helps to keep the moisture content of the wood stable. You only need to wax your antique furniture once per year, and otherwise just use a clean, barely damp cloth or a duster to remove the dust on a regular basis.

TLC Furniture Wax Works Great on Antiques

We’ve tried just about every paste wax out on the market, but we prefer TLC furniture wax for antique furniture. It comes in a variety of stains, but we prefer to use the neutral variety for light-colored wood and the mahogany color for all dark-colored pieces of antique furniture. While they do make brown and dark brown, we find that the mahogany gives a nice glow to the darker pieces.

Apply A Thin Layer of Paste Wax to Antique Furniture

We use a soft bristle brush to apply a thin layer of paste wax, but you can also put it on with fine grade (0000 4x) steel wool. Apply the wax in a light, circular motion, trying to go with the grain, so that you work the wax down into the grain of the wood on your antique furniture. Be careful to not to put too much on as it will make it much harder to buff off later.

Let Wax Dry, Even Overnight

You should begin to see a haze over your antique furniture where you have applied the paste wax. Now it is best to let the wax dry for a minimum of 30 minutes, but better is several hours, or even overnight.

Stay tuned for the next episode, as Greg will show you the best way to buff off the paste wax that you have applied to your antique furniture.

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her husband and best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or subscribe to this blog!

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture – Part 1

How to Clean & Wax Antique Furniture

Here at EuroLux Antiques, we clean and wax a great deal of antique furniture. While we only buy pieces that have been well-loved through time and are in good condition, most of the time they still need to be cleaned in order to look great. This blog is the first in a series of 5 about how to take care of your antique furniture.

Clean, Don’t Strip Antiques

Often folks tell us that they believe they need to strip and refinish a piece of antique furniture that they have at home. We always emphasize that is the last thing you want to do, as stripping and refinishing antique furniture will decrease the value of the piece.

Instead, we recommend that you should first try cleaning the piece. Sometimes a piece of antique furniture that looks dirty, dry, and faded just needs a little TLC to make it look great again. You can use Murphy’s oil soap and water, but be sure to thoroughly dry the piece afterwards.

Use Howard Restor-A-Finish to Clean Antique Furniture

We have found great results using the restorative product, Howard Restor-A-Finish, and we highly recommend it. It comes in a variety of colors, but we use either neutral for light-colored wood or dark oak for dark-wood pieces.

Apply with Steel Wool or Brush Attachment

You can apply Howard Restor-A-Finish with fine grade steel wool (0000 4x), but we prefer to use a natural fiber brush attachment for a drill. We use soft t-shirt fabric to apply the liquid and then use the brush attachment to clean the piece, always trying to go with the grain of the wood. Then wipe off the excess and let dry. The piece of antique furniture should now feel much smoother to the touch, as you will have removed the surface layer of old wax, dust, and grime.

Greg will show you how to wax a piece of antique furniture in our next blog, so stay tuned for Part 2!

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her husband and best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or sign up to receive this blog in your inbox!

5 Best Tips for Antique Furniture Care

Antique Furniture Care – What Should I Do?

5 Best Tips for Antique Furniture Care

Here at EuroLux Antiques, we are often asked how to best care for antique furniture. Just remember these five key tips for antique furniture care, and your antiques will look great for many years to come.

Dodge the Draft

My best piece of advice when it comes to caring for antique furniture is to avoid air blowing directly on your piece of furniture. Don’t place antique furniture over or next to a heat register in the floor or under a vent in the ceiling. Wood separation, splitting, and cracking are exacerbated by fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Find out more about wood separation here.

Keep out of Sunlight

Direct sunlight falling on a piece of antique furniture will cause the finish to deteriorate at an accelerated rate. Eventually the finish will look very faded and washed out. Of course, you don’t need to keep your home in the dark in order to care for your antique furniture. Just be sure to have some sort of sheer curtains, or blinds, so that you can diffuse harsh sunlight.

Use a Humidifier

If you live in a geographic area where there are significant swings in humidity throughout the year, you may want to place a humidifier in your home in order to help care for your antique furniture. The moisture content in the wood of your antique furniture will adjust to the ambient humidity in your home. These fluctuations throughout the year, from the humid days of summer to the dryness caused by heating your home in the winter, will cause an increase in wood separation, and may result in splits and cracks in your wood.

Avoid Spray-On Products

Don’t use cleaning products that you spray on your antique furniture. These products actually create a waxy buildup over time that will make your antique furniture look hazy and dull. They actually attract dust, which means you have to buy another bottle of the product, making the manufacturer happy. Just use a soft rag, very slightly dampened, or a duster, to lift the dust on a regular biweekly or monthly basis.

Apply Paste Wax Once Per Year

The best way to care for your antique furniture, on an on-going basis, is to use a good paste wax once per year. There are quite a few brands of paste wax available on the market, but we prefer TLC wax. We find it gives a beautiful glow and is easier to work with than other brands. Apply a thin layer of paste wax with 0000 (4x) steel wool and then buff off with a microfiber towel or use a brush attachment with a drill.

Remember these 5 tips for antique furniture care and your antiques will look beautiful for many years to come!

Aimee owns EuroLuxAntiques.com with her hubby and best friend, Greg. Aimee sources amazing antique furniture, vintage lighting, & high-quality reproduction furniture to help her customers decorate their homes in a unique way. She loves her 8 (you read that right) fuzzy children and is renovating a 1920s bungalow in South Carolina. Connect with or sign up to receive this blog in your inbox!